Monday, December 28, 2009

You NEED to read this

This is the most inspirational blog young woman I've ever read about:

KissesFromKatie.blogspot.com

She makes me feel surprised, convicted, inspired, and ultimately, she makes me want to do MORE. More than I'm already doing in my marble-floored, granite-countertopped, air-conditioned apartment in the (arguably) wealthiest city in Nigeria.

Oh, God, that I would endeavor to center myself in the middle of your plan for my life, following Katie's example.

Thursday, December 24, 2009

Merry Christmas to me!

All I really wanted for Christmas was my visa...and I got my wish today!

I didn't get exactly what I applied for, but that's Nigerian Immigration for you. I did get an STR visa, and I will be returning to Abuja, as scheduled on January 1st, which is the whole point.

There are a couple conditions: it's only good for 3 months and is single-entry only. The practical ramifications mean that I can enter Nigeria in January and can leave at any time, but I will not be allowed back in (This is not an ideal situation, clearly.). Furthermore, I have 3 months to convert this visa into a semi-permanent work permit. This shouldn't be a problem.

So I'm headed back to Nigeria. And I'll be bringing my new Kindle. Which might be my second-best Christmas wish. Merry Christmas, indeed!

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Home for the Holidays

I'm safe & sound, back on U.S. soil. It is so good to be home. Although, home looks a bit different than when I left in August. Firstly, it looks like this outside:
And like this:

There was an approximate 80-degree difference between leaving Nigeria on Saturday and arriving in Minneapolis on Sunday. Good times.

Home looked a bit different inside, too. Apparently, my mom is something of an elf...and has been working on a total bedroom makeover for me the past 4 months. I'm really enjoying the fruits of her labor:
There's been 3 floral prints adorning these walls for the past 16 years.
My initial reaction: "I have a big-girl bedroom now!" It's so beautiful. A million thanks to Mom, Dad, and Sarah, who helped get it ready by Sunday. I have a legit reading corner now! And throw pillows!!! I feel like such a grownup!

I'm just soaking up time with family and loved ones right now. Kinda like recharging my batteries for the next 6-month push.

It's bound to be a wonderful Christmas.


If you were keeping track...Christmas Countdown: 0.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

What's in a Name?

Forgive the Shakespeare reference in the title, please. I AM a Literature teacher, after all.

There have been 5 babies born at ICS this fall, and I think we're expecting 4 more before the end of the January. It was a group effort, but seriously...I wonder what's in the water?!

Mrs. N, one of the teachers who leads Drama Club with me, had a baby girl last week. This is girl #3, and when I saw the big sister, E, I congratulated her and asked her sister's name. E frowned up at me, arms encircled around my waist, and said, "I don't know yet. Duh."

Okay, so actually, she didn't say "duh," but she might as well have by the tone of her voice.

Sensing a need for some culture-divining and quick, I stopped by the Science Lab to talk with Mr. D, Mr. J, and Mr. L. They were happy to inform me that in Nigerian culture, modeled after the biblical tradition, babies are not named until the 8th day. On the 8th day, a naming ceremony takes place and the child is given names by their parents, grandparents and other important family members. I suddenly understood why my students distinguish between their 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and sometimes 5th names.

Yesterday was the 8th day and I was so privileged to attend the naming ceremony. The parents and grandmother were decked out in lavish Nigerian dress, big head-ties and all. I felt like they were sharing a secret with me: a piece of culture so foreign to me yet so significant to them.

After an hour of praise & worship African-style, the family distributed small slips of paper with the baby's name printed on it. E (the big sister) was sitting on my lap when the slips reached us. She was so excited to finally read her sister's names. I got really excited, too!

Mrs. N's baby girl is named Ogochukwu Chioma Keren-Happuch Precious Emenike.

The names all mean different things, but the theme is God's goodness and preciousness. Obviously, 2 are Nigerian but Keren-Happuch is Hebrew (it's the name of Job's youngest daughter born after his trial).

After we heard the explanations of the names, E smiled up at me and told me she plans to call her baby sister Keren. I think she'll be outvoted - everyone kept referring to the baby as Chioma after the initial announcement.

Then the most marvelous thing happened. They prayed each name of the child as a blessing over her. It was like the West's baby dedication, but it was all tied up in the significance of the names. I've never seen anything like it and I can't really do it justice but it totally choked me up.



That same evening, a Nigerian friend of ours stopped by. He's been instrumental in furthering my understanding of culture, so I was telling him about the naming ceremony and he taught me how to properly pronounce the Igbo names (i.e. the w in Ogochukwu is silent). I asked him for Nigerian names of my own and he was happy to oblige:

Enemi and Agifa.

These names, pronounced ey-ney-MEE and ah-gee-FAH, each have special significance. Enemi is a true friend or companion. Agifa refers to that which is precious, like a pearl. (I had previously told him that my name is Greek for pearl.)

I'm not going to change my name while I'm home Christmas or anything, but these names are really special to me now. It really helps with the whole cultural-adaptation thing.


For those of you keeping track, we're at T-52 hours and 10 minutes until takeoff. Just sayin'.

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Thoughts on Home

Those of you who began "following" me after I moved to Nigeria may not know that MaggieInNigeria used to be MaggieInChicago. The blog from that time in my life is here, and it was a useful tool of expression while in undergrad. I was reviewing some of the posts I wrote in the last year and a half, and am amazed at the way life has changed, and at the way God has provided.

12.31.08, "Here's to 2009 and all the changes it will bring. I can't wait!"
(Now THAT'S the understatement of the year!)

10.08.2008. On life after college graduation: "I have no plans as of right now. Due to my procrastination and the impractical nature of my liberal arts education, I'll be wandering aimlessly back to my parents' basement and waking up at 4am to serve espresso to the highly ambitious."
(Wrong. I'll be living in West Africa, making it on raw independence and the mercy of God. Interesting how life changes!)

And finally, this, on 8.12.08: "All these existential feelings have left this ache in me that I can only explain as wanting to go home. And the problem with going home is that home is a really fuzzy concept for me right now...home has so much less to do with location and so much more to do with people. Right now, home is still with my family and my best friends, but home [is also Wheaton]...Even if I wanted to keep all the pieces together, home is going to be spread out between states and people that I love and care about and no place is going to feel entirely like home. I wonder when that will change. I wonder if that will change."

This is the one I want to focus on, because it is the one that has changed the most. Ready?

Home is not a fuzzy concept anymore.

I left behind my ambiguous idea of home about the same time that I left the North American continent. Moving to Nigeria made a lot of things clear to me, but especially this: I have a home, and it's not here. Home is in the middle of the frozen tundra. Home is with Tony and OrganizedAudrey and Jake.

This realization has positives and negatives. It means that I am beyond-excited to come home for Christmas, but it also means that I'm holding my new Nigerian community at arm's length - I don't want to grow too attached. It means that I appreciate my family and even the Minnesota weather more than ever. It also means I am hesitant to put art on the walls here - it seems useless to make the flat I live in feel like home because it isn't home and it can't be.

I find this a very peculiar reaction, because I usually have no problem moving into a new place and making it feel like home. It took all of 1.5 semesters to begin calling Wheaton College "home." And when I lived and worked briefly in Chicago suburbs this summer, I settled right in. No problem.

It may be an incorrect analysis, but I think my heart may be guarded this time against the "home" feeling because God has other plans for me, beyond Nigeria. At this point, I don't see myself staying here forever.

(And I'm not saying this won't change. It's just how I feel about home after 4 months living in a completely different country.)

Whatever the reason, I feel peaceful that home has a street address.

It always did. I just forgot.

Sunday, November 29, 2009

Prayer / General Update

For those of you keeping up with the, ahem, "prayer concerns" of my life, I have an update.

5-year-old I has been diagnosed with Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia. Her prognosis is upwards of 90%. She begins chemo tomorrow, and will continue treatment for the next 3 years. Thus, our pastor's family will be leaving Nigeria to be together in South Africa for the first part of her treatment. I'm so glad they'll be united as a family, but selfishly, I'm sad to see them leave Abuja Ark. There are many questions (When? How? Who?) that will be resolved in the next few weeks. Pray for I's parents to have divine wisdom, for their 6-year-old twin girls to have understanding beyond their years, and above all else, for healing for little I.

Secondly, please pray for my flatmate Jan. She was widowed a year and a half ago, and she's still walking through the grieving process. She's been particularly down the past few weeks, and I suspect the upcoming holiday season isn't going to help things. Pray specifically that she is able to spend Christmas with her son. (While I'm gone, she'll be alone.) I'm very unsure of what role I'm supposed to take to support her--all I'm doing now is listening and trying to understand, which feels very futile--so prayer for me to know how to comfort her is also welcome.

Lastly, the next two weeks are going to either fly by or creep very slowly. Whichever the case may be, I need grace to make it to December 12th. This Friday is the Christmas program at school, for which I am the emcee (M.C.?). I'm pretty nervous about appearing in front of everyone, just because I am the new kid on the block...I feel like this is my opportunity to prove to the parents that I deserve to be here educating their kids. Not to put too fine a point on it. :) Somewhere in following week, I have to gather all the information for my visa, pack up my stuff, teach a full week of lessons while maintaining patience and sanity, and try to squeeze out 2 more sets of curriculum so that I don't have to bring work home with me. Then I have to jam 30 hours of travel into a 24-hour day, hopping through 6 cities. Weather permitting. (Speaking of which, I have a 7-hour layover at Heathrow...do I have any readers in London who want to help me pass the time?)

I am so thankful for this chance to be reunited with my WHOLE family (both sides of extended family, too!), get my fill of friends, watch movies with my brother, and generally stock up on some American love for the next 6-month push. I also can't wait to know what it feels like to miss Nigeria. In August, I felt a pull towards this mysterious place, and now that I know all the life that it entails, I can't wait to feel a pull towards familiarity.

Thanks in advance for your prayers. Can't wait to see you!

Saturday, November 28, 2009

Thanksgiving in Nigeria

Thanks to a moon that appeared at just the right time, the Muslim community declared Thursday a public holiday here in Nigeria. Translation: I got to celebrate Thanksgiving ON Thanksgiving.

Jan (my technically Canadian-married-a-British-man-but-lived-in-Nigeria-for-30-years flatmate) and I decided to really go all out. Some friends at the American embassy arranged for us to buy an imported turkey ($58 USD for a 12lb bird)! We hunted for/splurged on apple pie filling, Betty Crocker pie crust mix, corn, real butter, dinner rolls, wine and sparkling grape juice. We invited Mrs. O and her daughter M, Rachel (from upstairs), Jan's son T and his fiance for a quiet dinner at 6pm.

But then my clash with Nigeria/Nigerian culture started. It was epic.

It started with the pie. I mean, let's get real: it was my first pie, and it was out of a box and a can. It shouldn't have bested me the way it did. But we kept the box in the freezer to keep it free of bugs and when I finally took it out, it solidified into a frozen brick. I had to microwave it to break it down, knowing full well the recipe calls for COLD water to create dough that is easy to roll out.
Betty Crocker: 1, Maggie: 0.
So then I had two portions of warm pie crust dough, flour used for making Indian flatbread, and a "rolling pin" (actually an old gin bottle filled with peanuts). My "floured surface" was our granite countertop sprinkled with grainy whole wheat flour and let me tell you, I REALLY struggled to get the darn thing rolled out. It kept sticking to the bottle (even though I floured it!) and much to my baking chagrin, I had to roll it back into a ball and try again, fearing the flour-y, gritty crust I knew would result.
Betty Crocker: 2, Maggie: 0.
Jan walked into the kitchen at this point and asked how me how I was getting on. I was covered in flour, caked in sticky dough, seething with rage at Betty Crocker, and generally feeling sorry for myself that I struggled with a stinking boxed mix. I looked at Jan and told her I was really pissed off. She quietly excused herself and went to visit our neighbors for a while. Smart choice.
Betty Crocker: 3, Maggie: 0.
I finally got both crusts mostly rolled out (after freezing them for a few minutes to get them to cooperate), even though neither circle was big enough for the pie tin and looked really pathetic. I covered some of the "bald spots" on the top of the pie with pieces of dough that fell off when I lifted it off the counter. I sprinkled the top with sugar and hoped for the best.
Betty Crocker: 3, Maggie: 1.

Next it was the turkey. It came packaged in plastic and included one of those handy red pop-up timers, but there was no indication of its weight at all whatsoever. I had to stand on our scale with a bird in my arms to get even an estimation of poundage (kilo-age?). That lack of information paired nicely with our oven's convenient lack of listed temperatures. The dial is printed only with a continuum: the word OVEN at one end and a tiny flame symbol at the other. I guessed.

My clash with Nigerian culture came to a head because of the guests. Jan's son and his fiance were driving in from Kaduna and had trouble getting transport arranged. So we pushed dinner back until 7pm. Then Mrs. O wanted her husband to come, so we borrowed an extra chair & place setting. Then T called again and said they wouldn't make it until 8 and would be really hurt if we started without them. So dinner was pushed back again til 8. Actually, Jan and I got in an argument about that last one. She thought it was funny. I thought it was rude.

Meanwhile, my turkey finished at 5:30...right on time for the 6pm meal I had planned. I called Mom all the way from Africa to ask how to keep a turkey warm for 2.5 hours until guests could arrive. Jan was standing in the kitchen when I was talking to Mom and I had to try really really hard to veil my extreme frustration.

The kicker is that they actually arrived at 7. Which means that I was still cooking the potatoes when they showed up. Awesome. Mr. O never came at all.

In America, when someone invites you to an event that is not an open house, you show up. On time. In Nigeria, people run on their own schedules, coming and going as they please. I know I'm in Nigeria, and I know I should be used to this by now, but I'm an American. This was American Thanksgiving. Show up when you're invited.

Dinner was strange. The food was good except the turkey had dried out in some places (go figure). Our conversation was really spastic and besides the prayer, we didn't once mention what we were thankful for. Also it was 10:30pm by the time we finished the meal. (In case you were wondering, the pie turned out all right - everyone liked it. Maggie: 10, Betty Crocker: 3. I win.)

I don't want to hear about how I'm a biblical Martha or how I failed at accepting the host culture. I just want to acknowledge that the food was the only thing to make this Thanksgiving feel like a Thanksgiving and that makes me really sad. Especially because I have so very much to be thankful for this year.

I think I've hit the wall. I just want to come home now, please. 14 more days.

Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Delay does not mean Denial

It appears that Mrs. O and I received incorrect advice for the proper way to go about becoming a legal foreign teacher in Nigeria, and as a result, I have been refused the Temporary Work Permit I've applied for.

The Nigerian government has asked me to return home at Christmas and to reapply (from scratch) for an STR visa: Subject-to-Regularization. Once I have this type of visa in my possession, it will be possible to convert that to a Temporary Work Permit during spring of 2010.

In that moment, though, when Mrs. O told me there had been complications with the visa application, I was overwhelmed with fear--not that I would be unable to go home for Christmas--but that I would be unable to return to Nigeria in January. Nothing like the threat of not being able to return to make me realize how much I really want to be here.

To make a much longer and detailed story short, I will be getting an extension on my tourist visa, which will allow me to leave as scheduled on December 12th. Then the school will pay to rush my application for a new visa in order for me to return as scheduled on January 1st.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Prayer Request

This one is urgent and hits close to home for me:

Iona, the 5-year-old daughter of my pastor here in Nigeria, is being medivac'd out of Nigeria tonight; they suspect a serious blood condition. Please pray for her quick and comprehensive healing, for wisdom for the medical team caring for her on the way out of Africa, and that her mother Annabel will get a seat on the same flight. Her father, Ulric, will be staying behind in Nigeria with the twins, Caitlin and Meriel, who are 6.

Yes, Iona is the same little girl I profiled in my previous post about hiking in the bush.

This family has become quite precious to me in the 3 months I've been here. Their hospitality literally welcomed me into the fold at Abuja Ark Church, and their selfless leadership has caused me to conceptualize "church" in a new way. Please join with me in prayer for Iona's complete recovery.

Monday, November 23, 2009

Shock and Awe minus the Awe

If last week's post on Nigerian attitudes towards sex was "adults-only," this one is even moreso. Parents, moderate your children's internet usage....starting now.

Obviously I wasn't in the States last night to enjoy the AMAs (American Music Awards), but I checked out pictures and news reports today...and I am pretty shocked, to say the least.

For those of you who missed it, Adam Lambert (American Idol Season 9 runnerup) gave ABC a run for it's edit-this-quick-before-it-goes-live-on-the-West-Coast money.

I didn't watch the video, but the pictures and news reports suggest that Lambert channeled some S&M in his black leather costume, simulated oral sex with a dancer wearing a harness, grabbed his own crotch several times, flipped off the audience, and, in a burst of what can only be interpreted as rating-mongering, forcefully kissed the male keyboardist in the middle of the song.

And it happened on prime time television.

His response? "It's all for a laugh...it's really not that big of a deal."

Um, I'll respectfully disagree. It is most certainly a big deal.

I am pretty disgusted with the on-screen behavior, and, news flash: it's not because he's gay. All homosexual overtones aside, what Adam Lambert does in the privacy of Adam Lambert's home is none of my business because I'm not Adam Lambert.
But, Adam, my dear, you just MADE it my business because you did it on prime time television for millions (hundreds of thousands?) of people to see, including children. It's the not-having-a-choice-in-the-matter that disturbs me.

My second point of contention with Mr. Lambert is his claim of a double standard in the industry:

"Female pop artists have been doing things provocative like that for years, and the fact that I'm a male, and I'll be edited and discriminated against could be a problem."

Um, I'll disagree again.

Which came first: Janet Jackson's wardrobe malfunction, or Britney Spears' and Madonna's kiss? (Oh how far we've come from the chicken and the egg...) Chronology doesn't matter; I was just as repulsed by these provocative actions from women in the industry. Again, it was the unedited, shock value, let's-boost-the-ratings attitude behind each event that unnerved me.

In a moment of confession, I really like Lambert as a musical entity. I find him a very captivating entertainer. I liked watching him on American Idol, and I was proud of his Broadway roots in the Wicked cast. I'm even fascinated by the guyliner and faux-hawk.

But really...thrusting into some guy's face? Nobody wants to see that at the AMAs. Stick to music, please.



I apologize that this update has absolutely nothing to do with Nigeria. Sometimes news from the States is more interesting than my life in West Africa.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Crazy Hazy Days

The weather is definitely changing in Abuja. Firstly, the rains have stopped. As a result, things are dusty and dry. Secondly, I can't see the rocks anymore. Every morning on my way to work, we cross a bridge and looking east, I can see Aso Rock in the distance. The view is magnificent, and really starts my day off on the right foot. Lately, though, I haven't been able to see it at all because the mists hang so heavy in the air. "Mist" is just a euphemism for dust, but it does remind me of fog.

My weekend has been full of school, as usual. As you all know from my previous complaints, Friday was a working holiday at ICS. The kids didn't come in, but we had a day-long meeting and got home only slightly earlier than usual. Then this afternoon, the PTA put on a Family Day Out at the local Palmetium (park/plant nursery). They sold food and had a jumpy castle (I don't know what else to call it!) for the kids. It was even nice to see my students outside the classroom in a more relaxed setting.

On that note, it's still strange to me to be on the flip side of the teacher-student relationship. When I was a student (pre-college), I rarely saw my teachers outside of school. The proverbial "seeing your teacher in the grocery store" scenario never happened to me, but I think it would have been weird. I try to keep that in mind as I interact with my students...how many of them were weirded out by seeing me in jeans today?

This upcoming week is another Muslim holiday, so we won't have school on Thursday or Friday. I'm giving 5 tests on Monday, too, so I really only have to plan lessons for 2 days this week. It might not seem like a big deal, but trust me, these are the simple joys in my life these days.

I'm keenly aware that Thursday is also a holiday back home, albeit for different reasons. If memory serves me, this will be the very first Thanksgiving holiday I have spent without my family, and I'll be missing the fellowship of Mom's kitchen on that day. I'm going to make the best of it, however: Jan and I have decided to host our own Thanksgiving dinner at our flat and invite some of our neighbors.

Planning a holiday meal in a country which does not recognize said holiday poses some challenges, but we're making do. Turkey is almost impossible to come by, but some church friends have access to the U.S. Embassy's recent shipment of holiday turkeys (yep, all the way from the USA!), and we should be getting ours tomorrow. I don't know how big it is, but we're paying $56 USD for it, so I hope it's a good size bird!
Our menu so far includes: mashed potatoes, corn (out of a can; the Minnesotan girl in me just died a little), vegetables, dinner rolls, Jan's homemade stuffing, and an apple pie (we couldn't find pumpkin, but there's nothing as American as...). Mrs. O volunteered to bring Nigerian cranberries and ice cream to go with our pie. If I can track down a can of cream of mushroom soup, I might try a green bean casserole, too. We're also going to pay through the nose for real butter, but I'll be darned if I'm going to make mashed potatoes with anhydrous milk fat and emulsifier!

It may very well feel like going through the motions, because what is Thanksgiving without my family and American football?, but it is still a good practice; I have much to be thankful for this year. God has blessed me with comfortable surroundings, a solid job, Christian community, and the ability to communicate with people back home. Nigeria is definitely at the top of my list. Not getting malaria is a close second, however.

Prayer Request: My work permit/re-entry visa has not arrived yet. I've been told I'm at the whim of the Nigerian government, which doesn't make me very comfortable. Please pray that I will hear back from the consulate this week in regards to my visa. I really would like to go home for Christmas.



3 weeks from right now, I'll be on a plane. But who's counting?

Friday, November 20, 2009

Staff Training Day

Did you ever wonder what happened on those "Staff Training Days" in high school or the "Faculty Development Days" in college? I'm on the inside now, so let me fill you in:

Meetings.

It's really boring. I mean, I'm wearing jeans and there aren't any students here, so it can't be all that bad. But it's in Nigeria, which means that time is irrelevant. Which means that I arrived at school ON TIME at 7:30 for what I was told was an 8am meeting only to find out that it was, indeed, a 9am training meeting.

Silver lining? I'm blogging while I wait for the show to start.

Update (2:21pm local time): Okay, so the meeting wasn't that boring. Especially because I received some good tips for lesson planning, ate Chicken Republic, and hung out with my friends. Yep, just like going back to school.

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Dead Poet's Society

Today I walked into my 7th grade Literature class as Emily Dickinson.

What a riot.

I don't have access to any outrageous 19th-century costumes, but I wore all white and took off all my jewelry. I even swept up my hair in a classic cover-the-ears bun (what my dad would call the "schoolmarm look").

I did not answer any of their greetings--a risky move considering the nature of this culture--and instead wrote "My name is Emily Dickinson" on the board and sat down in the front of the classroom. Just like that, nervous laughter started bubbling up from my students.

We've been studying a poem of Dickinson's for the past week, and yesterday I asked them to come up with questions to ask her if she were to suddenly appear in the classroom. When I gave them the assignment, I didn't even know I was going to dress up and pretend to be her. It just sort of happened. But in my limited teaching experience, it's the changes you make to the lesson plans you already prepared that get the best reactions.

So there I was, trying hard not laugh, feigning a weird accent so they would hear the difference between my own speech and this character's. I began to take questions from them, introducing myself to each student as if I'd never met them before.

It was really cool for about 30 minutes. Then one student started talking nonstop, and another complained that he was bored now. But for the most part, once they got over their initial disbelief ("Miss Thomas, you're really freaking me out, o!") they asked me all their questions and I had a grand time pretending to be my favorite poet.

When I exhausted their questions, I excused myself, went to the library, put on a scarf and all my jewelry, and returned to the classroom, where I pretended like I knew nothing of Emily's visit. I ignored all of their comments: "But it was you! You had the same clothes!"

I love days like today, when I can look into my students' eyes and see curiosity, discovery, and an interest in poetry. These days are rare, but when they happen, it reminds me that I do, in fact, love teaching Literature.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

The Birds and the Bees

Heads up! Today's update is a frank look at Nigeria's cultural attitudes towards sex. Younger readers, redirect your browsers now. :)

I unwittingly entered into a discussion about sex today with a fellow teacher. It was one of those kinds of conversations that completely broadsides you and makes you say How did we get here?--one that I consequently couldn't escape. So, since I couldn't back out, I stepped up. And I learned a lot about Nigeria's general attitude towards sex. Some of it was shocking, and most of it was saddening.

Mr. L works in the science lab at school. He's 25, and the coworker closest in age to mine. We've become friends, but in that culture-clash way where I still occasionally leave our conversations confused about what just happened. Please factor that element into today's story. This bature still doesn't understand Nigerian humor. Or their idea of water-cooler conversation.

He told me the story of last weekend, in which he traveled to visit a relative, which happens all the time for Nigerians with family outside of Abuja. When he arrived, he found a woman staying in his uncle's house (again, not out of the ordinary, since most Nigerians are very generous). His uncle also decided to travel, leaving Mr. L alone in the house with the woman.

One can piece the story together from there, but the crucial detail is that Mr. L denied any fault. He says she made herself available to him and his actual words were: "Well, you know, I'm a man and I can't help myself."

Oh, how grieved I was to hear this. Unfortunately, it's not the first time, either. It seems that in Nigerian culture--and even in the Church--sons are raised believing that "boys will be boys" and are therefore not held accountable for their sexual actions. I have heard many stories of Nigerian men being unfaithful to their wives, and I don't know what makes me sadder: that men think this is normal behavior, or that their wives think this is normal behavior.

Back to the story, though...

Mr. L then asked me what I thought about his story. Baffled, I asked him if he felt any regret over his actions. He said he did indeed feel guilty. I advised him to never let something like this happen again, and to definitely not return to his uncle's while the woman was there. He agreed that that was good advice.

I asked if he had a girlfriend (he alluded to one in a conversation last week), but he said no. I bridged the cultural gap by explaining to him that where I come from, we would call that cheating, and it would be grounds for the woman to leave the man. Mr. L actually laughed at the thought. In Nigeria, it all depends on the woman, he told me. As long as the man still makes time for the girlfriend, most women (in his estimation) don't care who their men are sleeping with.

But really, what does one say to that?

In a society so touched by Islam--a religion which allows a man to take 4 wives "as long as he loves them equally," and to divorce them by saying the words "I divorce you" on 3 separate occasions--I find Mr. L's story a drop in the bucket. This is the one point of cultural diversity I have tried to "appreciate" but cannot. I draw the line at a cultural practice which encourages men to dishonor their women by breaking the marriage covenant and which teaches women that their right to be cherished by one man is subservient to his sexual impluses. If for no other reason, the fact that this principle is so culturally ingrained in Nigerian men will be the reason I would not marry a Nigerian man (and oh, how it has been overtly suggested to me).

On a religious note, the standard is supposed to be different amongst Nigerian Christians. It's supposed to be, but often isn't. I heard recently the story of a woman who discovered that her husband, a pastor, just fathered a child by another woman. What do you with a situation like that?

Don't even get me started on the double standard between male infidelity and female infidelity. I'll give you a hint: in one scenario, no action is required, and in the other, public shaming and scornful divorce is the consequence.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

My life be like...

Not every day is adventure-filled. Not every day is boring.
Here are some highlights from recent days.

1. Remembering that my monthly internet subscription runs out at midnight tonight. If I switch ISPs now, I just might be able to use Skype Video. Hmm...to switch or not to switch?

2. Science experiments in 8th grade. They've been reading a short story by Jack London, in which the main character dies of frostbite. Since most of my kids have never seen snow, they had a really difficult time imagining what bitter cold is. Converting Fahrenheit temperatures to Celsius wasn't enough for them; they still didn't understand how fingers can burn from being so cold.
Being a good Minnesotan, however, I decided to give them a taste of winter. I spent my weekend stockpiling ice in my freezer, and then transported it to the freezer in the science lab at school. When class time came around, I appeared with bowl full of ice and nearly-frozen water, and the kids couldn't wait to play my game.
"Stick your hands in," I told the first brave student, "Just take them out when they feel cold." After only a few seconds, he looked up at me with wide eyes. "I can't feel my hands!" When he finally pulled them out, I told him to tie up his shoelaces--he couldn't. One by one, they took turns freezing their fingers and trying to write their names or tie their shoes, or having competitions to see who could last longest in the subzero water.
Point made.

3. Discussing the Civil War with a Nigerian chemistry teacher. He asked me who fought in the war. "Americans," I replied.
"But they weren't originally from America," he countered. "Where did they come from?"
"Europe, mostly. The first ones came from England," I told him.
"Ah-ah, so the soldiers were British!" he concluded.
"No, they were all Americans, just from the North or the South."
"But who was more American, the British in the North or the British in the South?"
"No, Mr. Joseph, no British. All Americans. From America, both the North and the South."
"But I thought they came from England!"
I'm telling you, I was fighting a losing battle.
It's actually not the first time that's happened. Nigerians I've talked to don't seem to get the "melting pot" concept, like they have trouble differentiating between ethnicity and nationality.
Earlier this week, one of the ladies in Accounts saw my ring (a traditional Irish symbol I purchased in Ireland 4 years ago), recognized the origin, and exclaimed, "Oh! You're Irish!" When I responded in the affirmative (it was easier than answering "1/4 Scot-Irish, actually"), she said, "Okay, so which one of your parents is American?" She had trouble understanding how I was Irish in ancestry, but American in nationality.
Sometimes, a smile and a nod is easier than trying to explain.

4. Going to a Nigerian club. The boys upstairs took me to a local hangout for a drink last weekend. (She drinks alcohol? Yes, I do.) I had to explain to the bartender to how to make a rum and Coke (the finished product was definitely more Coke than rum) and nobody was carded. Not once. Toto, we are for sure not in Kansas anymore.

5. Meeting new people. Today at school, a parent I had never met before asked me if I was "the new one Mrs. O brought over from America." Why, yes, I am the nation's newest import. Good to know I already have a rep at this school. Just wait until the Christmas program comes around and I'm the Master (Mistress?) of Ceremonies. Putting the white girl on stage, indeed.

I love my life. It's crazy and full and sometimes a bit illogical, but I love living it. It makes me feel so alive.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Daily Grind

Yesterday, my parents asked me what's new in my life. It's a harmless question, especially considering that I now live on a different continent, but I honestly couldn't think of an answer.

See? It happens, even in Nigeria. Life settles into a daily grind, and monotony creeps in.

Instead of choosing to be bored, though, I'm going to be thankful. I think I prefer routine to the other more dangerous ways life in Nigeria can be "interesting."

So I'm going to keep planning lessons, as I am wont to do every Sunday afternoon. And tomorrow, like every weekday morning, I'm going to get up at 5:45 a.m. and take my vitamins and eat my oatmeal and go be Miss Thomas, the baddest Lit teacher there ever was.

It's a routine, but it's my life. I am so lucky to be living it.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Green Oranges and Other Confessions

I have a couple confessions to make:

1. I didn't write this update over the weekend because I procrastinated too long on my lesson plans and correcting. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it.

2. My oranges here are green. No, for real. That's not an oversized lime, that's an orange, and it legitimately disturbs me. Oranges are called oranges because they're orange. Come on Nigeria; get with the program.

3. Sometimes I strip God of His omnipotence. Hello, subject change. Yesterday in church, we talked about Psalm 30. The psalmist praises God for delivering him from trouble. The credit for the deliverance is given to God. God is given praise for being, well, God.

And yet, how many times do I say or do things that strip God of the praise He deserves?

Exhibit A: I mentioned that I had a conversation last week with a new neighbor. Part of our exchange went like this:
L: I feel so bad that you have to live with old ladies and go to church all the time.
Me: I don't mind. Really, I don't.
L: Well, do you drink?
Me: Occasionally. Why?
L: Oh, good. Just making sure you're not one of those people who lived in the substance-free dorm at your college.
[Pause here to appreciate the irony.]
Me: Actually, my whole college was substance-free. It's a Christian school.
L: Oh. I knew some crazy girls like that. They were all anti-drinking and 'saving themselves for marriage' or something like that.
[Spoiler Alert: I'm about to deny God.]
Me: Oh. Well, I'm not crazy. I do drink and stuff. It's hard to associate yourself with a particular group of people like evangelical Christians because I'm not, like, extreme like everyone else.

WHAT?! DID YOU JUST HEAR ME?!

Why didn't I take the opportunity to tell him about the incredible, life-changing redemption I have received from Jehovah Mephalti, the Lord my Deliverer? (yep, I Googled it.) Why did I show no hesitation in severing myself from the community of saints I would otherwise call the Body of Christ, the Church? Why did I back down?

My rationale at the time was, Oh I don't want to scare him off. This could turn into a great example of "Relational Christianity."

Ooh, that R. C. gets me every time. I can justify just about any action (or inaction) with Relational Christianity (i.e. I don't want to ram my religion down people's throats; I want to develop a relationship with them so they can see there's something different about me.).
It's a benign concept enough, but I struggle with elevating it above Jesus in importance. Legitimately. Sometimes I take my eyes off Jesus and focus on being relevant and culturally palatable and relational instead of on the one I call Savior.

But that's not the kind of life Jesus called me to live. He's called me to live a life apart: a crazy, radical, that's-not-how-the-rest-of-the-world-works kind of life that points people to Jesus.

And honestly, you guys, it's a struggle for me to keep my finger off Backspace right now, because I'm human, I mess up, I make a mockery of that purpose, and I don't live like I believe any of that stuff I just typed. If you've known me for more than 5 minutes, you know that when I screw up, I go all out. And the last thing Christianity needs is another hypocrite. For all my failings, though, I am never outside the grace of God, and neither are you.

So for all the times I've missed the opportunity, for all the "L conversations" I've had, let me just say this:

I believe it. It's some pretty messed up stuff like human sacrifice and eternity and a God I can't even see, but I believe it. All of it. I believe that if I was the only human left on earth, God still would have loved me enough to send His Son to be the redemption for all my mistakes. I believe that this truth should permeate every level of my existence and that it should grieve me when it does not. I believe that there is a world beyond this one, and when I come to the end of my life, I will be spared an eternity apart from God because of a sacrifice that has already been made, a debt that has already been paid. (Hey, that rhymed.) (English teacher, remember?)

And frankly, my friends, that is why I'm in Nigeria. Because I also believe that God created me, is mindful of me, and cares about what I do with my life. I believe that my purpose is to bring God glory in everything I say and do. Being here is an act of obedience to a God who is bigger than I can imagine and who loves ME, even when I strip him of all his omnipotence.

So actually, yes, I am crazy.

P.S. I tried really hard to leave all the "Christianese" out of this post, but it's hard to undo 22 years of a specific learned vocabulary. If words like sacrifice, debt, deliverance, eternity and omnipotence are confusing to you, give me a chance to tell you what I mean.

Friday, October 30, 2009

Christmas Music in October

While I usually keep to a strict No-Christmas-Music-Until-Thanksgiving policy, I feel it is a greater sacrilege that I'm seeing 95 F in October and missing Fall completely. Besides, I'm on a different continent...I'm playing by different rules here. My current soundtrack is Sara Groves' Christmas album. Don't hate.

I'll post something poignant and introspective later this weekend. Which is not to say I've already written something and am delaying in posting it to build suspense...those are just the standards I'm setting for the post-yet-to-be-written. Let's catch up on a few pieces of news first:

I'm almost legally allowed to work in Nigeria. Almost. The process of converting my visitor's visa to a temporary work permit is really complicated, involving a copy of a copy of a copy of a form that got printed off the internet at some point a long time ago. Anyways, the Nigerian government now holds copies of my passport, vaccination records, teaching contract, and college diploma (!) and we're pretty sure they're going to let me stay. :) But more importantly, they're going to let me travel at Christmas and reenter this beautiful nation to which I'm slowly losing my heart.

I went to the FIFA World Cup U17 match between Brazil and Switzerland tonight. I don't know how Nigeria got the bid, but the tournament is being played at the National Stadium (which is across the street from our compound). The teams are practicing on the American School's practice fields, so FIFA gave them a whole section of VIP tickets for the tournament. The teachers that go to my church invited me to tag along, and I'm not one for turning down a chance to be an annoying sports fan. :)
For my first soccer match, it was pretty cool. Let's just forget about the moment when I realized that U17 means the players are under 17 years of age. Nope, 17 does not mean the number of teams in the league, Mag; way to make the connection. Anyways, so the match wasn't as big of a deal as I thought it was, but I met some new people and made some new friends.

Speaking of which, the friendships are coming--slowly, but they're forming. My counterpart at the American School, M, is in her early thirties and hails from Wisconsin. She has offered to help me plan Literature curriculum and even borrow her lesson plans for next semester; this is a huge relief and another answer to prayer. She's a Green Bay Packer fan and easy to talk to. I'm going over to her apartment after church tomorrow to help her dye her hair. Yep, female bonding at its best. :)

I also got a chance to talk with our new neighbor, L, who just graduated from college on the East Coast in May. He's Nigerian-American, and has returned to Nigeria for a few weeks to visit Rachel's sons. We talked for a while last night over tea and it was just really good to talk to someone my own age with a Boston accent and an understanding of American culture. We commiserated about graduating, moving on with our lives, and living far away from home. It was really encouraging and was exactly what I needed.

For those of you faithfully praying for my health, I appreciate it very much. I can breathe through my nose again, which really is a bigger deal than it needs to be. I've just never been so grateful for my health.



Countdown: In 6 weeks + 24 hours, I'm going to be on a plane home. Get excited.

Thursday, October 22, 2009

First Quarter and Answered Prayer

The past 8 weeks have been baptism by fire, for sure. As of today, I've survived the 1st Quarter marking period and lived to talk about it. This is a specific answer to the prayer that God would equip me for this career.

I had some tough spots this week, including:
- Grading 26 Rough Drafts and Final Drafts (that's a total of 52 essays graded in the past 3 days!)
- Reading Devouring Redeeming Love in 2 days (making said grading very procrastinated difficult)
- Really sporadic electricity (resulting in a candlelight grading session on Sunday night)
- Adding a second ESL student (G's older sister, I)
- Giving a student an F in my class (It really was harder for me than for him, I think)
- Coming down with a nasty cold, complete with cough and congestion

On Sunday night, I prayed a very impassioned prayer, pleading with God to heal me of this cold. I know it's just a cold, but it arrived at the worst possible time of the Quarter. I prayed James 5:15 over and over ("And the prayer offered up in faith will make the sick person well"), believing that God would heal me. I even promised that when He did heal me, I would tell all my students about it. (Some people call this tactic "bargaining.")

I've had the cold for 5 days now. No healing.

My energy is nonexistant. My appetite is gone. Cramming in all these grades resulted in a string of late late nights - I slept 4 hours yesterday. I fell asleep at my desk during recess today.

But HOLY TESTIMONY, BATMAN! It's almost Friday, I've computed all my grades (59 students!), graded all the catch-up work from the past 8 weeks (by candle, no less!), and I didn't have to miss any school! I wasn't healed of this cold, but I have proof of Philippians 4:13: "I can do all things through Christ who strengthens me"!

Sometimes the answer to prayer isn't the Sunday School refrain of "Yes," "No," or "Wait." Sometimes the answer is: "I will strengthen you."

And for THAT, God deserves the glory.

Today, while struggling to make it through my 6th grade class, a student raised his hand and said with concern, "Miss Thomas, can you please sit down?" God love him, a 12-year-old boy cares more about my health than I do.

Lord, thank you for answered prayer.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Just Call Me Anne...with an "e"

I've always loved the "Anne of Green Gables" movie. The two-tape VHS set was one of my Christmas presents circa 1999. Mrs. O, my landlady, is also a fan of the franchise, and invited me to watch the first two movies with her. We finished the sequel tonight and I'm realizing more and more how much I'm like Anne Shirley.

Let me count the ways:
1. Anne Shirley was a headstrong, over-imaginative bookworm as a child. What a coincidence, so was I.
2. Anne Shirley took offense easily and tried to outdo everyone's expectations for her. Strangely enough, I do the same thing.
3. Anne Shirley became a teacher. Hmm...me, too.
4. Anne Shirley moved away from her home on P.E.I. to see a new part of the world by working as a teacher. Are we seeing a theme yet?
5. Anne Shirley was proposed to twice and turned them both down. I have been proposed to once since arriving in Nigeria (and declined)...so I'm halfway there.
6. Anne Shirley finally realized her true feelings for her childhood friend Gilbert Blythe only after refusing his proposal and after he fell sick with typhoid fever. Okay, the similarities stop there, I guess.

I'm not going to read too much into this comparison. It's just a movie. She's just a strong protagonist. And it's still just my overactive imagination.

Then again, if your name is Gilbert Blythe, I'd like to talk to you.

Happy 2 Months!

Dear Nigeria,

Happy 2 Month Anniversary! We've been in a relationship for 8 weeks so far, and I've loved almost every minute of it. I celebrated today by shopping at Garki Market, answering to the name "oibo," and sweating to the point of dehydration. Good times.

Look, Naija, I wanted to talk to you about something. You've been very good to me thus far--the very definition of hospitable--but I was wondering if you wouldn't mind turning down the heat. I mean, I know you and the Equator are really tight, but if you two decided to get in a fight and part ways for a little while, giving me a few days of sub-90 degree weather, I would really love that.

I'm sure we can sort this out. I mean, I'm in this for the long haul. I'm not giving up on you yet, Nigeria.

Love,
Maggie

P.S. We're taking a break for a few weeks in December, just so you know. I'm sure our relationship is strong enough for that kind of test. I'll come back to you, don't worry.

Thursday, October 15, 2009

A REAL Update

Since the last two blogs were about chocolate and a hairdryer, and the 3rd contained the phrase "public urination," I think it's time for a more legitimate update.

Teaching is going okay. Teaching ESL is going really really well. My student, G, is 9 years old, as dark as his Nigerian counterparts, drops his s's when speaking Spanish, and hasn't quite grown into his adult teeth yet. The look on his face when he grasps a concept is something I will carry with me forever. Basically, he's a joy to work with and his parents are SO supportive of his learning English.
I learned this week that they are not only making him read in English every night, but they've begun speaking to him in English at home. From a cultural standpoint, I don't know how I feel about this loss of mother tongue, but from a teacher's perspective, he'll learn English a lot faster if it's all he's speaking and reading.
We've discovered that G can read English very well, but he often doesn't understand what he's saying. So today, we did a lot of sound recognition; instead of showing him a picture of an object and asking him to identify it, I read aloud a word and asked him to verify the Spanish translation.
He's learning school-applicable things: the question words (who, what, where, etc.), days of the week and months of the year, colors, shapes, ordinary objects, and simple phrases (how are you, please, thank you, you're welcome). We also study words united by sounds (cat, bat, fat, mat; an, man, fan, pan). We ended the day by walking around the library, pointing at colors and saying them in English and in Spanish.
To be honest, I'm totally making this up as I go along. I have no idea if this is the best way to teach him. I don't know how to teach a child another language. I don't know if I'm helping or hurting his learning with my methods or approaches. But G was happy today. He was smiling and laughing and told me he likes our lessons. And that's a good sign. I'm just trying to focus on G and not worry about compare myself to dwell on my incredible college roommate who is teaching an ESL class of 30 adults back in Chicago and contemplating a future in that line of work. She could teach him more effectively, I'm sure, but I'm doing my best and that's got to count for something.

Another facet to G's arrival at school is that I've adopted yet another set of cultural expectations. Greetings in Latino culture are completely different from American and Nigerian. I've gotten used to the extensive verbal greetings here in Nigeria, but when I saw G's father after school yesterday, he kissed me on the cheek - a perfectly acceptable greeting in Cuba, but unfamiliar in Nigeria! There were Nigerians around us and I think they were a little perplexed!

In other news, homesickness hit like a wall last weekend. I wasn't feeling well--my body has begun resisting spicy food, which is most inconvenient--and for the first time I allowed myself to dwell on how far I've come, literally. It is disheartening to consider the seven-almost-eight weeks I've been here in light of the 58 days ahead of me.
I remember similar feelings during my first semester of college. When we arrived and moved into the dorm, it felt like summer camp; it took a couple months to realize we weren't going home at the end of the summer. It's the same thing here: I've hit the wall, saying, "Okay, I've had my fun, I've learned about the culture, let's go home now." But I can't go home, and this isn't summer camp, and I'm in this for the long haul. God's not finished with me here yet.
So Saturday I just kind of moped around the flat, looking at photos online, letting myself be miserable. Monday night, however, the other ladies in our compound (Mrs. O and Rachel) came over for a visit and asked me to show them all my pictures. It was therapeutic to tell them about my family members and loved ones.
God is so faithful to have built a support system around me whose prayers reach all the way across the ocean. (By the way, you're a part of that system, too! Your comments and feedback on the blog make me feel connected.)

1 Timothy 4:10 "For to this end we toil and strive, because we have our hope set on the living God, who is the Savior of all people, especially of those who believe."

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Chocolate

I'm not really that kind of girl. I don't crave chocolate, I don't need it on a daily basis. It is not my once-a-month drug, if you will. It's nice, and I'll eat it and I will enjoy it, but I don't feel the driving urge to seek it out and consume ungodly amounts.

Then I went 7 weeks without it.

That's right. I've eaten no chocolate since arriving in Nigeria, and honestly, I didn't really realize I wasn't eating it. Nigerians traditionally don't eat sweets (candy bowls and cookie jars do not exist here), which means chocolate is sold in specialty shops at very high prices. And I really can't justify spending money on candy at my age.

Enter Milka Alpine Milk Chocolate.

This stuff will change your life, folks. One of my expatriate friends, C, was in Germany on business last week and he brought back gifts for everyone. Jan and I received the biggest bar of chocolate I've ever seen. It went straight into the freezer and I more or less forgot about it.

Until 10 minutes ago.

And now the hum of the freezer sounds suspiciously like my name.

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Vanity

Forgive me my vanity, but I just blow-dried my hair for the first time in 7 weeks.

And it is glorious.

That's all. I should be doing my work, but I'm not, so there's nothing new to tell. Except my hair dryer...mmm. Love it.

Friday, October 9, 2009

Fill-in-the-blank

In an effort to avoid talking about Obama and the Peace Prize (I thought the "A for effort" philosophy ended in 2nd grade? [Guess I can't avoid the topic entirely]), let's do a vocabulary exercise!

Fill in the blank with the appropriate word or phrase:

Nigeria is __________. Ready? Go!

One-word responses:
Heartbreaking. Vibrant. Breathtaking. Beautiful. Alive.
Broad. Sprawling. Claustrophobic.
Scorched. (And I'm not speaking geographically.)

Two-word responses:
Public Urination. ('nough said.)
Africa hot.
"Ah-ah" and "Sss, Sss." (Both colloquialisms, "ah-ah" encompasses a range of exclamations, from "No way" to "Be careful." The "sss" or hissing sound replaces the American attention-getter "Hey, you.")

3 words responses:
Phone calls home.
A great disparity.
"She's my aunty." (In reference to any older woman.)
New construction. Everywhere.

Phrasal responses:
Having people think I'm related to any other white person simply because I'm also white.
Sticky hot shadows on burning pavement.
Washing dishes and just hoping you don't get salmonella.
Suffering jokes about marrying a Nigerian.
Bad roads and worse traffic.
A row of buildings: bank, restaurant, bank, cardboard house with a corrugated tin roof and open fire, supermarket. (See "A great disparity.")

I could go on and on--and I probably will, when I learn new ways to complete that sentence.

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Fully Alive

The following stories, anecdotes, and glimpses into my new life cohere together to create a feeling my best friend Laura calls being fully alive. (Shout-out to Saint Irenaeus of Lyons, who coined it first: "The glory of God is man fully alive.") I am, perhaps for the first time, in that state of feeling fully alive, and it is so glorious (pun intended) I don't ever want to leave.

First: Spanish. I have always loved this language. Even when the subjunctive verb tense threatened to undo me, I still thought it was beautiful. Moving to Nigeria, I realized, would not give me much opportunity to use my Spanish, but here I am, nonetheless.
On Sunday I remarked to Jan (my flatmate) that I might like to introduce a Spanish language and culture club to the school in the Spring, because I miss speaking it so badly. Maybe some of the students would enjoy learning a new language, in addition to the French they already take in school.
But then again, my God knows me well. Even before a word is on my tongue, my Lord knows it altogether. (Psalm 139:3-4)
Yesterday, ICS received a new student in 3rd grade. He is from Cuba, and doesn't speak any English at all. Guess who his new ESL teacher is?! I've been designated to help him find his feet as quickly as possible, and couldn't be happier with the prospect.
I found him on the playground today and introduced myself in Spanish. He didn't say much, but then after school when his father came to pick him up, Gabriel brought him to me and introduced us. We had a full conversation in Spanish, and I managed not to confuse my verb conjugations too much!
This is fully alive - using a passion that God has given to benefit someone else. Glory to God!

Second: representing Wheaton. The college fair went well yesterday. I think there were a few hundred students there with their teachers, from schools all over Abuja. We brought our 15 10th-12th graders, but there were easily 10 other schools there. I gave my little presentation in the morning session ("Deadlines are fixed, not fluid...") and everyone was very attentive. I wasn't nervous, but my kids told me afterward that I spoke too fast. I suppose some habits die hard.
When the tables were open later in the day, I settled in, expecting a few kids to stop by and ask a question or two. I did not expect the floods of students flocking to me because they'd seen me on stage, or the rapid-fire questions about studying medicine and law in the U.S., or the frenzy to sign up on the Wheaton list, even though they knew nothing about the school! I recognized some patterns in them that I've learned are classically Nigerian, and I finally refused to give them handouts unless they listened to my explanation of Wheaton.
Oh, my dear friends, please tell me how to explain the concept of a liberal arts college to a young man who wants to get to America at any cost, regardless of the fact that his English is virtually incomprehensible. Please also tell me how to inform two Muslim young women that Wheaton is a Christian school and accepts only Christian students. Given the dual nature of this city, I found that a particularly difficult burden.
The fair was organized like any typical American college fair, but the students brought the Nigerian flavor. Most of them approached my table and held out their hands, face-up, for whatever paperwork I would give them. Most did not greet, or ask questions, or even bother to look at what college I was representing. They just wanted the information, quick and dirty.
As frustrated as that left me, I thought about the possibilities of that day. Even if just one student follows up on the information I gave him, and goes to the website, or emails the Admissions Office for more information, it will be one more student that would never have heard about Wheaton otherwise.
And that's all my job is - to tell people about an experience that changed my life and that could change theirs, too. Besides, I don't think the Admissions Office can afford to send a counselor out this way very often, and since I'm already on the ground...
This is fully alive - to testify to the ways God changed your life by using the college you attended, and to know that the telling brings glory to the One who ordained it.

Third: Drama Club. We're already preparing our presentation for the Christmas program - The Nativity. Today, I taught 20 1st-3rd graders the song "We Three Kings." Then I convinced Kamsi to be an innkeeper, Tasneem to be a Wise Man, and Anisa to be a shepherd, even though all 3 wanted to be angels. Kamsi and Tasneem didn't take much convincing - I just told them that the angel parts require very little acting, so we needed to utilize their incredible acting talents for the more difficult roles (which, let's be honest, was speaking a little prophetically).
Tasneem's response? "You mean you give me the important part because you know I can do it?" Yes, my dear little one, and because the birth of Christ was attended by more than just 20 Nigerian angels.
Little Anisa didn't want to be a shepherd, but when I asked her if she was a very good big sister, she assured me she was. "All right, then," I explained, "Shepherds have to be very responsible people. They have to protect their sheep at all costs. And in the drama, they have to lead the other students onstage. Do you think you can handle that responsibility?" In response, I got a huge smile and the sweetest little neck-strangling hug there ever was.
This is fully alive - making my precious little ones proud of themselves. His Kingdom belongs to such as these, I get to love on them and receive love in return. Glory to God!

Fourth: Sixth Grade. This class can be talkative to the point of disrespect, and mischievous to the point of amusement. Days with them are a toss-up; it's just as likely to end in frustration or glee. Today was tough. The four loudest boys could not keep their mouths shut. While I followed the guidelines Mrs. O taught us yesterday at our staff training on discipline and told the boys to talk to me after class, they still didn't quiet down. After class, I sent them all out into the hall, and before I could even open my mouth to tell them how disappointed I was in their behavior, I began to affirm them. Respect and love, not anger or disappointment, controlled my voice, and I found myself telling the boys that they steer the behavior of the rest of the class. "You four boys are a very powerful group," I told them, "and if we work together, everyone else will follow you, too. But if you're distracting, no one else will listen to me. I need you to help me keep the class attentive. Can you do that?" Of course, the boys nodded, they will help me keep order in the class, because I told them they have the ability to do it.
Now, tomorrow, we'll know if that approach worked, but I loved that I didn't have to yell or get angry or even show my disappointment in them. We ended the day on a happy note, those 4 and I, and that left me grateful.
This is fully alive - encouraging a child to his highest potential and expecting them to live up to it. To call out the best in someone else because God calls out the best in you makes me feel purposeful and satisfied. Praise the Lord.

And I just showed up for my own life
and I'm standing here, taking it in,
and it sure looks bright...

- Sara Groves

Monday, October 5, 2009

Random Thoughts on a Monday

This is not going to be a pithy blog update. Sorry, but it's Monday, and I'm running low on pithy. Prepare yourselves.

1. New Friends. Through Facebook and a mutual friend, I've met another Minnesota native teaching English Literature in Nigeria. He's 200 miles away from me in the western part of Nigeria, but he's got a kick-face blog (tendrilofthought.blogspot.com) and you should totally be jealous of his photography. I so wish I could a) take pictures like that and b) have fast enough internet to upload them.

2. Taste of Winter. Today I discovered that I can taste snow here Nigeria. If you would like to know how this is possible, given that today's high was 82 F (23 C), kindly secure yourself a box of sugar cubes.
Next, freeze them in the freezer (so the ants don't get to them). Then, as you are about to drop two cubes into your steaming cup of tea, revert to childhood for a moment and pop one in your mouth.
Before you get it all slobbery and it becomes a puddle of congealed sweetness on your tongue, however, inhale through the cube. (Good lord, I feel like such a child for even typing that. Alas...)
Take a breath of frozen-sugar-flavored air, and in that moment, my friends, you will taste SNOW. Or, at least I did. And I thought about all my childhood winters growing up in Minnesota, eating not-yellow snow in the front yard, and it made my heart glad, even if I felt like a child for doing it.

3. I get to represent my alma mater tomorrow, and I'm obnoxiously excited about it! The US Embassy is hosting a college fair for American college and universities, and not only am I sponsoring a booth for Wheaton and bringing my 10th-12th graders to the fair, but the fair organizer asked me to give a brief presentation to everyone at the morning session about Admissions Deadlines in the American system.
You see, in Nigeria, time is relative. The phrase "I'm coming" could mean: "I'll be right there," "I'll be there in an hour," "I'll be there next year," and it also means "I'm leaving."
Translate that to the world of application deadlines and you can see how a culture gap could leave some aspiring college students in the lurch when it comes to getting into college.
So tomorrow, I'm going to tell all these Nigerian students that in America, we take our deadlines seriously. If the application materials have to be in by January 1, that means send it in before January 1, don't start thinking about it on January 1 and get around to it by February 1.
I'm going to wear a suit in an effort to convince everyone that I'm more than 15 years old. It's not likely, but I'm going to try.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Nigeria Day Celebrations

Since today is Nigerian Independence Day, ICS celebrated yesterday with a morning program for the parents. The whole day was a big to-do, and everyone dressed up in traditional Nigerian dress -- even expatriates, including me! It was truly one of the best days I've had since arriving 6 weeks ago. Below are just a few highlights from the day.

Everyone, meet my 11th grade homeroom class. These 4 students (yep, just 4) are known as "the angels" by the rest of the staff and it didn't take me long to agree with them. After my first week of school, the students presented me with cloth they'd purchased in the market; I had it made into the skirt and blouse you see in the picture. These students are some of the most hard-working and studious kids I've ever met; I'm routinely the first to leave the classroom at the end of the day - they love school so much they just stay. (Add that to the list of differences between America and Nigeria!) Also, let's just acknowledge now that I look about as old as they do. I know, I know.
And yes, that's me with my hair in plaits. I don't think it's the right style for me, but it definitely made me feel a bit more Nigerian! I also wore a traditional head tie during the morning celebration, but as the day wore on it became Nigeria-hot, and for the love of all things good and sacred, I had to sacrifice the head tie. Seriously. The Hot Season is headed my way and I'm already melting.

These precious faces belong to the two youngest girls in Drama Club, which I help lead. Our club performed a dramatic reading of a poem about Nigeria at the morning program, which I helped choreograph and direct. The young ones at our school are collectively known as "babies," not out of condescension but out of love and affection. These girls, my Drama Babies, give me hugs every time I see them. They light up my day.


These are my new friends Leke and Henry. Leke is doing his I.T. with us (it's like student teaching) while he completes his university studies, and Henry works in the Print Office at school (someone told me he's also a tribal Chief). The 3 of us are probably closer in age than anyone else in the school, and they're really easy to get along with. (Also, note my head tie.)

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Hiking in the Bush and Seeing God

Every other Saturday, expatriates gather in Abuja for what is known as The Hash. Apparently, The Hash House Harriers (HHH) is a worldwide organization that I never heard about in the US. There are hash walks in most major cities throughout the world, and Abuja is no exception.

Expats meet and convoy out to the bush, where they follow a trail marked by paper confetti. A spot of confetti means "you're going in the right direction." A circle shape means "checkpoint," where you have to wander around until you find the trail again. If you find an X of confetti, it means "false trail" and you go back to the checkpoint and set off again in a different direction. There are people who have walked the trail before, and they are called "hares." They wear special t-shirts and walk in front of and behind the rest of the crowd to make sure nobody gets lost.

To be fair, I really had no idea what I was getting myself into. No one stopped to explain the whole concept to me, and I didn't understand where we were going to be walking. I wasn't really dressed properly, and just felt like I was along for the ride.

And what a ride it was.

Corey drove us to the starting point, making good use of his 4-wheel drive. The roads weren't really roads at all, and realization began to set in. This will be no casual walk in the countryside. No it most certainly will not.

We set off walking on a red clay dirt path. It was downhill, but it was easy enough. Did I mention the insane number of children on the hash? They were everywhere - some as young as 3 (although credit is due to their parents who carried hauled their sweaty little bodies all over the bush).

When the path ended, we kept going. Up and down hills, crossing streams and farmer's fields, fighting our way through the undergrowth, sweating all the way. At the tops of the hills, we could see for miles the outskirts of Abuja, which was spectacular (and of course today was the day I decided not to carry my camera). Most of the time I had to concentrate on what was going on at my feet, so I couldn't really appreciate the scenery. It's hard work keeping up with people already adjusted to the heat and terrain.

After walking about 4 km, there was a pit stop where everyone got water, soft drinks and beer (in other parts of the world, HHH is regarded as a social drinking group that happens to go on walks). As we left the rest stop, the clouds moved in. Since arriving here in the rainy season, I've watched the sky turn from pink to black in 45 seconds - these clouds move fast. The winds picked up and things got cold and dark quickly. When the rains began, we were still 2 km away from the end and still had to climb up the face of a hill with a river of red clay mud rushing down at us.

We did make it back without falling or losing anyone, and I managed not to get cut up by the brush or sunburned or bitten by mosquitoes. All the kids made it, too, although most of them were piggybacking it for the last miserable kilometer.

At the end, we piled into cars and chopped (Nigerian for "ate dinner") at the house of one of the hares (hash leaders). All told, it was a pretty miserable end to the day. I hate being cold and wet. Next time, I'll bring a change of clothes!

There was one image from the day that I will carry with me forever. The pastor of my church here brought his wife and 3 daughters to the hash. They are little girls, and the smallest can't be more than 5 or 6.
Honestly, I was impressed she made it without being carried. I thought I had it rough getting smacked in the face with trees, and that poor little thing was getting smacked in the face with all the brush.
When Iona began to complain (I'm not blaming her; I would have, too), her father simply stepped directly in front of her, with one hand behind his back so she could hold on to his finger. For every step he took, Iona took 3, but her father was taking the brunt of all the brush.
After a while of shielding her, we came upon some rough terrain, and my pastor had to step aside to navigate them both. When he moved, however, and little Iona had to forge her own way through the undergrowth, he continuously encouraged her. "You're doing brilliantly, Iona." "Imagine how strong your legs will be when we're finished." He encouraged her all the way.

My heart was touched (read: I teared up) as I imagined how much more our heavenly Father shields us and encourages us as different times in our lives. Sometimes we need shielding, and sometimes his encouragement has to be enough sustain us while we're getting hit in the face with the brush.

It also reminded me of the daddy-daughter dates I had when I was small. (It doesn't help that Iona looks a lot like I did as a little girl.) My memories aren't as clear as the pictures taken, but I remember the puppy dog backpack filled with our sandwiches and picnicking in a forest. I also remember picking my way through a field (or a marsh maybe?) of reeds/grasses that were taller than me.

Hiking in the bush is a little bit different than that, but the idea is the same. Sometimes a little girl needs her Dad to shield her; sometimes his encouragement is enough, even when she's no longer a little girl and living far away in Nigeria.

I love you, Dad.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

On Being Miss Thomas

When I consider my girlhood aspirations, which included being a ballerina/singer and owning a pony, becoming a teacher was not among them. Indeed, I spent 5 years of my life ensuring everyone that while I majored in English, I had no intention of teaching. It is laughable how mistaken I have proved myself to be.

Now that I find myself in the throes of lesson planning, classroom management, and grading, I have developed a deep appreciation and respect for my teachers from elementary school to college. It is a hard job. It's hard to stand in front of a classroom of--count them--24 6th-graders and command their attention. It's hard to force a discussion on Navajo Origin Myths with 4 11th-graders. It's hard to know what to do when the Nigerian 7th-graders turn against the American and British 7th-graders.

The toughest part of my job isn't actually interacting with my students. It's grading them. I knew coming into this that some of my students would have a better command of English than others. I just didn't expect there to be such a disparity between the ones that do and the ones that don't. In one class, I have a Nigerian child who can't spell "doesn't," another who began learning English in 2008, and another who daydreams in class because he can't follow along in the textbook when we read aloud.

At ICS, we practice differentiation, which basically means that we grade subjectively based on a child's English proficiency. As the English Literature teacher, I feel this pressure most profoundly. Differentiation doesn't mean playing favorites; it means grading a student based on what they know, and depending on the class, up to half of the students are differentiated in my gradebook. Out of 59 students in my 5 classes, up to 30 of them are graded on an individual basis. That's a lot of extra work, but mostly, just extra thought.

I so badly want to see my students succeed. I want to be Miss Thompson from that story "3 Letters from Teddy" in Chicken Soup for the Soul. I want to believe in my students until they believe in themselves. I want to champion in them a love of literature.

But the grades are in on the first round of tests, and it's not looking good. I won't curve and I won't give pluses or minuses. My grading is straightforward, but apparently my test questions are not. After reviewing a particular question on the 10th grade test, I decided to throw it out. Doing so, I learned afterwards, made the difference between a D and C for one of my students. I cannot express the delirious relief I felt when I changed his grade.

I know I'm a new teacher, but in the reading and research I've done, I've come to see that the responsibility for learning rests 100% on me as a teacher (and 100% on them as students, but that's another topic for another time). Based on that principle, a test is a reflection of me, the teacher, and my ability to make my students learn, so I feel the pinch and pain of every D.

I want to make sure my students see that literature can be fun. I'm contemplating a partial overhaul of some parts of my curriculum to allow for a week of supervised fun reading culminating in a book report. I want my kids to love reading as much as I did when I was a kid. Now that I'm teaching, I realize just how much I really do love literature. After 17 years of education and forced reading and college classes and the English major, I'd forgotten. Literature is my passion. I can't imagine teaching anything else.

More Pictures!

Thanks to Mom and her high-speed internet, I'm able to share a couple more pictures from Nigeria!

This picture was taken on my very first night in Abuja. If I look absolutely out of it, it's because I was. :) The white woman is my Canadian/British flatmate Jan and the Indian woman is Rachel. We're in her flat, which is directly above ours.


















I have adopted Nigerian fashion with open arms, and take great joy in wearing traditional dress to school on Fridays. I get tons of compliments for trying to "fit in." I bought this dress ready-made in the market, and top is a bit constricting, so I might have a tailor let it out. (I'm also having 2 other traditional outfits made - I should have those within the next 2 weeks)

Monday, September 21, 2009

See? Could be worse...

Dear Mom and Dad,

Today I spent the afternoon with K, a sweet lady from the South who moved to Nigeria 14 years ago. Apparently, she met her husband (a Nigerian) in the States, went to visit him in Nigeria, stayed for a month, and then decided to move here. She came home to tell her parents she was moving to Nigeria to be with a man they'd never met.

See, Mom and Dad? It could be worse...at least you had a month to process my leaving!

Just putting it into perspective.

Love,
Maggie


[On a more serious note, it appears that most of the women I've met who relocate from the US to Nigeria do so because they've fallen in love with a Nigerian. I appear to be in the minority, coming to Nigeria for the sake of employment, and because I'm recklessly independent. I think I still like being me.]

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Alignment

I'm not trying to be pretentious when I say that the past month in Nigeria has changed me. I'm not claiming to be enlightened by a new world-conscious perspective or to have acquired a burden for the broken parts of this world. My paradigm hasn't shifted. I haven't lost my personality.

But I'm different. I've changed somehow.

And the change isn't that I've learned how to speak Nigerian Pidgin English or how to bargain in the market or how to live my life without electricity. It is all that, but it's not.

It's loneliness rooted in the fear that no one may ever perfectly understand me now that I've attached myself to a country in West Africa. It's the fear that I will never leave Nigeria and the fear that I will leave Nigeria.

It's being bothered by how much my life has changed and by how much it hasn't. It's easy to say I've become more dependent on God in Nigeria, but did you know that moving to Africa doesn't fix what was wrong or missing in your relationship with Jesus Christ before you left?

It's the alarming disparity between my calloused heart ignoring the lame beggar in the market and fighting tears while singing worship songs.

It's seeing change in places I didn't expect and not seeing change in the places I counted on.

The change creeps in and the change floods me. I'm over- and underwhelmed at the exact same time. I'm brave and I'm a coward. I love my life and I hate it because I could be--should be--living it better.

I ran headlong and face-first, with arms outstretched, to this place because I didn't see any open doors, or forks in the road, or lights at ends of tunnels. I saw an opportunity and I ran. I ran away from life, I ran towards life.

I am two-faced. I am conflicted. I am living with one foot in this life and one in the past next. I feel like Velcro, willingly rending myself from the US and sticking to Nigeria. But when I tear myself away from here, won't there be ripping and weeping? Won't I be caught between then and now and what's next? Won't I always be homesick for someplace else?

I don't know how to explain the change, but I know this is only the beginning.

When darkness veils His lovely face,
I rest on His unchanging grace.
Through every high and stormy gale,
my anchor holds within the veil...
All other ground is sinking sand.

Livin' for the Weekend

Question: What do you do with a 4-day weekend in Abuja, Nigeria?

Answer: Spend all day Saturday swimming and relaxing at the Hilton, enjoy a potluck with other neighbors in the compound, watch Annie, go to church, visit friends for lunch and more swimming, and grade papers/plan lessons.

It's nice to know that at the end of a long and largely sleepless work week, I can sleep and relax and enjoy my time off.

Goodbye, rainy season. Hello, eternal summer!

Friday, September 18, 2009

Fridays are the Best Days of the Week

Oh, how I love Fridays. As a young girl I loved Fridays. As a college student I loved Fridays. Now, as a teacher, I love Fridays still.

This Friday I gave 3 tests, played the Hangman game to help my 6th graders learn vocabulary words, and wore another Nigerian dress to school. Mrs. Opara, the music teacher, took one look at me in my dress and said, "Miss Maggie, someone is going to marry you here in Nigeria!" I'll upload pictures eventually!

This Friday is particularly wonderful because it is the beginning of a 4-day weekend for us! It's the end of Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting, and the Sallah is a public holiday...one of the benefits of living in a half-Muslim nation!

I've discovered that in moving to a brand-new country, I've come to treasure and celebrate small victories. Yesterday I went someplace alone and it was wildly successful! Before my parents die of heart attacks, allow me to explain: Our school is positioned quite close to a popular restaurant franchise called Chicken Republic. We're so close, in fact, that there's a shortcut leading directly from the front gate of the school to the front doors of the restaurant. Jan and I have popped over there for our after-school lunch occasionally, so I know the way quite well.
I did everything the way I was supposed to: I took only the cash I needed to buy food, I told my fellow teachers AND the guard at the front gate where I was going, I walked directly there, ate my food, and walked directly back. My grand adventure lasted all of 20 minutes, and 7 of those were spent waiting for my chicken sandwich to be made!
It's really not a big deal, but it feels monumental to me. I've never before appreciated feeling independent and safe at the same time.

Last anecdote of the day: Right before I left for Nigeria, my mom asked me if I wanted to take some packages of Ramen Noodles with me. If I remember right, I think I looked at her with self-righteous disdain and said, "Mom, I'm out of college now. I don't want to eat Ramen if I can help it."

Oh, oh, oh, how mistaken I would be.

Here in Nigeria, a favorite snack of adults and children alike is Indomie, which looks like, smells like, tastes like, is prepared like and has the same exact packaging as Ramen noodles. Not only do I eat it, but I bought a case of it in the market. The only difference between Indomie and Ramen is that Indomie provides a flavoring packet and a chili pepper packet, and I use them both. Not bad for a girl previously allergic to any kind of spice!

By the numbers...

59 is the number students I have in grades 6, 7, 8, 10, 11.
40 is the number of writing assignments I graded today for Grade 6.
3 is the number of assignments that said "Miss Thomas is my favorite teacher."

11 is the number of hours I was at school today (Parent's Night).
6 is the number of students' parents I met.

5 is the number of tests I've written this week.
3 is the number of times I had to write the Grade 11 test, starting from scratch each time because of power outages to my classroom computer.
8 is the number of times I've drawn the Plot Map Diagram today.
2 is the number of students I've almost sent to the Principal's Office.

14 is the number of days we've been in school.
75 is the number of lesson plans I've written since then.

1 is the number of clarinets owned by the Music Department.
0 is the number of teachers they have to teach clarinet.
8 is the number of years I played clarinet.
10 is the number of reeds I've ordered for when I start teaching. (yikes!)

4 is the number of cups of tea I've had today.
5 is the number of hours of sleep I got last night.
12 is the number of blisters on my feet.


26 is the number of days I've been in Nigeria.
88 is the number of days before I come home.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

A Day in the Life

Due to popular request, here's a glimpse into my daily life. (Dad, this one's for you!)

Monday-Friday:
6:00 Alarm goes off. Snooze.
6:04 Crawl out from under the mosquito net and get ready.
6:40 Make breakfast: mix up a cup of milk (powdered is the only option here) using refrigerated, bottled, filtered water. Water straight from the filter = warm milk. Only made that mistake once. :)
7:00 Leave for school in Mrs. O's car.
7:10 Arrive at school, sign in, head to my classroom.
7:30 First class begins.
9:30 First Break: students break out the lunch food (Jollof Rice and Chicken is my students' favorite). There is no noon-hour lunch period in Nigerian schools. Students eat a meal at 9:30, go for recess at 11:50, and eat lunch after school at 3pm.
11:50 Recesssssss
2:40 School's out. Grade papers or do lesson plans. Bring lots of work home.
3:00ish Hail a taxi using the following words: "Good Afternoon. American School. 300." The American school, AISA, is well-known landmark near our compound and 300 works out to less than $2 USD. I'll be darned if that doesn't work 9 times out of 10. Jan used to do all the bargaining, but I've become quite a hardnose if I do say so myself, so I get most of the "public" these days.
3:30 After-school snack: Bottle of water and cup of tea [Lipton Yellow label] and a combination of the following: fresh fruit (custard apple!), cashews, peanuts [called ground nuts here], raisins, Luna bar.
4:00 Jan takes a nap; I get online.
6:30 Jan wakes up; we cook dinner.
8:00 Dinner & dishes finished, settle down to work (this week I'm writing tests).
10:00 Shower and get ready for bed.
11:00 Tuck myself into my mosquito net, asleep before my head hits the pillow.

(Tuesday night is Church Bible Study. Wednesday is expat night at Protea Hotels. Friday evening is Bible Study with Rachel's friends.)

Saturdays:
10:00 Wake up, have breakfast, sweep, mop, do dishes
12:00 Call Abdul, our trustworthy taxi man.
1:00 Go to the Maitama fruit market, Zartech Meats, or Park & Shop to do grocery shopping. Wuse Market, Garki Market, Artisan's Village Market (tourist trap) for everything else.
4:00 Home, rest, relax, make tea, cook, visit our neighbors in the compound.
***procrastinate on work***

Sundays:
10:00 Church across the street at AISA.
12:00 Home for lunch.
12:05 Start laundry (on-site washer and dryer, praise God!)
1:00 WORK, consisting of lesson plans and grading; stopping for snacks, laundry, and dinner.
10:00 Shower and bed.

You know, when I type it all out, it doesn't seem like my days are all that full. Maybe its just that life moves at a different pace here in Nigeria. I always feel like my days are brimming with things to do, and I'm usually exhausted but fulfilled when my days finally end.

I love my life. Have I mentioned that yet?